Selecting the right tow vehicle to tow your RV, especially one that
is that is agreeable as a daily driver, can be a very difficult
decision. And even if you begged, most dealers would not allow you to
actually hook up your RV and test the combination out. Much of what you
have to go by has to depend on the vehicle's specifications, its towing
capacity, and your driving impressions. Whether you have your heart set
on a particular vehicle or not, there are still many choices to be made
about the engine, transmission, suspension, brakes, comfort and luxury
features, and whether you want two or four-wheel drive.
Here are some important steps you should take when considering buying a vehicle to tow your RV.
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1) Trailer weight: Know the Gross
Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR) and the actual weight of your RV. You can
find the GCWR of the RV on the weight placard. Never use the "dry"
weight rating typically found in a brochure, as this is the weight of
the RV with no options or any of your stuff loaded in to it.
To find the weight of your RV, visit a public scale and have it weighed.
See the Related Article section below for instructions on how to do
this.
2) Vehicle loading: Consider the weight to be
carried in your vehicle. Every vehicle has a Gross Vehicle Weight Rating
(GVWR). This is the maximum permissible weight of everything on board
your vehicle, including the vehicle itself plus passengers, cargo, and
fuel. Estimate the weight of all your camping gear, passengers, and
luggage that is going to be in the vehicle, then add up the weights. You
must also include the tongue or pin weight of your RV. This can add
substantially to the vehicle's total weight and put many vehicles over
the permissible GVWR.
If you'll be carrying close to the maximum GVWR while towing near the
maximum towing weight, you should forget about that particular vehicle
and go to something with more load and towing capacity.
3)
Vehicle type: For comfortable, no-nonsense hauling, heavy duty trucks
with towing packages and big diesel engines cannot be beat for towing
the big 5th wheel. But for towing a smaller travel trailer or a pop-up
camping trailer on the weekends, you don't necessarily need a truck. You
might be able to get by with a passenger vehicle, like an SUV or large
sedan.
Check the vehicle's manual for tow ratings. Be aware though, that
seemingly similar vehicles (in power, size, and weight) can have quite
different towing capacities, and some vehicles don't allow towing at
all.
4) Frame type: There are two type of frames in
today's vehicles: full-frame and unit-body. Full-frame vehicles and
traditional trucks are the better choice for hauling very heavy loads
because the tow hitch can be attached directly to the frame with trucks
and full-frame SUVs, minimizing the strain placed on the body of the
vehicle.
With a unit-body vehicle, there is not a traditional rail frame. The
body and the chassis share the load together. The tow hitch is attached
to the body or bumper in a unit-body vehicle. If you tow heavy loads
regularly in a unit-body vehicle, you're likely to find more creaks,
rattles, and body integrity issues. If you just tow occasionally on
weekends, it's nothing to worry about.
5) Drive train:
The undisputed choice for serious towing is rear-wheel drive. It offers
better traction and stability compared to front-wheel drive. Truck-style
four-wheel drive is not advised, as it should never be used while
towing, unless you are in an emergency situation. All-wheel-drive
systems are a mixed bag: some aid in towing, while others have a reduced
towing capacity and are vulnerable to added wear or damage from towing.
If you're thinking about the all-wheel-drive model, check that the
towing capacity for the all-wheel-drive model is similar to the
two-wheel-drive version. Some of the more sophisticated all-wheel-drive
systems will change the proportion of torque going to the front and rear
to compensate for any change in stability due to the RV. These systems
are typically available on the car-like SUVs that are otherwise
front-wheel drive.
6) Transmission: An automatic
transmission is usually the best choice for towing. A manual is OK only
for experienced, careful shifters. With an automatic, just remember a
few precautions: make sure your vehicle has a transmission cooler, and
remember to always disable overdrive to prevent excessive wear.
7)
Engine type: Think torque rather than horsepower for towing. If the
terrain permits, see how confident the vehicle can accelerate from a
stop up a steep hill. Torque is what gets the load moving so in general,
the more you have the better.
Modern turbo-diesels really excel in towing, and they're a great choice
when available due to their better mileage and long-term durability.
They also maintain their power at higher altitudes where gas engines
tend to lose power, as much as 3% power per 1000 feet of altitude. This
assumes the gas engine is not turbo or supercharged.
Be aware that if you choose a smaller engine for economy, it might be so
strained that it actually uses more fuel than the larger engine, not to
mention all the extra engine wear.
8) Brakes: Most
modern vehicles have assisted braking, known as ABS. Ensure that the
vehicle you choose has ABS. It can really help in a panic situation,
especially towing a large RV.
Some vehicles have an electronic trailer brake option which is
incorporated into the vehicles braking system. This feature controls the
brakes on the RV in relation to how much you are braking the vehicle.
If the vehicle you are looking at has this option, get it!
9)
Towing packages: Make sure you get a vehicle with the special towing
package if it's available. If it's not, look at another vehicle.
The towing package should include an oil cooler, transmission fluid
cooler, heavy-duty alternator and battery, higher-capacity rear springs,
and possibly a stabilizer bar (or larger one than standard).
Trucks might also get a lower final drive ratio (a higher number means
lower gearing which is desirable for towing), and heavy-duty
differential. Don't get a stripped-down version of the vehicle you want
thinking to add all of these things as needed. It will be
cost-prohibitive and likely void your warranty.
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Tips & Warnings
Along
with the vehicles GVWR is another important specification: the GCWR, or
Gross Combined Weight Rating. This is the maximum combined weight the
tow vehicle and the RV can weigh legally. Exceeding this can not only
damage the tow vehicle, but may have insurance implications in the event
of an accident.
When selecting your tow vehicle, make
absolutely certain that you consider the tongue or pin weight of your RV
when determining the payload you need. For example, if you have a
vehicle that can carry 1500 lbs., 750 lbs. may be tongue weight from the
RV, leaving 750 lbs. for cargo, including people, fuel, bikes, coolers,
chairs, wood, generator, etc. This might not be enough reserve payload
capacity for your needs.
CLICK ON THE BRAND NAME to Check out the TOWING CAPACITY on a CHRYSLER, DODGE, JEEP or RAM Vehicle!
As read on: http://www.ehow.com/how_2094697_choose-right-vehicle-towing-rv.html#ixzz1yobcFwCi